Chile Wednesday 16th October

We have a free morning and elect to go to the Museum of Memories which chronicles how over 22,000 people were tortured and killed with over 2000 never found, but presumed dead during the years of the military Junta and Pinochet's dictatorship 1973 - 1989. Not that long ago really. One of the most disturbing things for me was how the press was manipulated to spread propaganda as reporting the news.

Banners used in the protests

Pictures or representations of the people killed

A typewriter from the offices in the Presidential Palace bombed during the take-over.

The start of the "Fake News" The suicide of Allende has not been supported by recent forensic investigations.

 Use of electrodes was extensive in the torture of so called informants, but there was also an impressive array of ways that political prisoners kept themselves occupied during those dark days - writing and poetry, carving, sewing, weaving and drawing.
All in all it was a sobering experience - but I was also shocked when we left the Museum to find armoured tanks and military personnel  just across the street at the entrance to the metro.
Just three days later we hear that the metro system has been torched, seven are dead and a state of emergency with a no travel edict had been issued. Thank goodness we were in Argentina by then.

After lunch we packed our bags into the minibus and set off for Valparaiso. We stopped out in the wine district at this charmingly named vineyard.

Organics require an awful lot of hand work

A nosy alpaca and many chooks at to the menagerie here

 Chile exports 80% of its wine, and keeps 20%, but in Argentina these figures are reversed. It doesn't take long to see the differences and similarities to what we know. I was a well behaved tourist though, and when our guide said "Look at the little bunches of grapes just forming!" I didn't enlighten her that they were the flower inflorescences - and its a long way, fraught with danger, from these to little grapes,

OK, Duncan and I are in our element!! But you can tip out those white wines!

 We have a lovely room at Hotel Gallos, but still pondering how they got the Fiat Bambina on the roof of the house next door.

Hand knitted cushions and rug and a wool fibre wall-hanging.

 This evening we all went out as a group again - this time to Vinilo. I could not manage an entree sized meal - it was too big and a bit stodgy. Still enjoying the carmenere red wine.

Bruce enjoys yet another pisco - he's not a wine man

This ones for you Rua. All music on vinyl. Those old Beatle songs got us  going.

 After we get back from the restaurant we head up to the rooftop - even though its freezing! Fantastic views of the harbour and the hills of Valparaiso spread out around us.

Harbour

Hills

Sussing out Santiago

Tuesday 15th October
Today, in line with Peregrine's low carbon emission policy, we are off on a walking tour with local guide, Pablo. Santiago is a vibrant, but chaotic city of 6 million. We start walking through Parque Forestal, past the fountain gifted in 1910 by the Germanic States to celebrate the liberation of Chile from the Spanish in 1810 - followed in 1818 by the declaration of Independence officially of Chile as a country.

I really like the way the fountain created a bow-wake as the boat (figuratively) steered Chile to freedom.

 Again we cross the Mapocho River and head for the funicular. So far, so good, but there are two school parties ahead of us and we have to wait in line for about 40 minutes.

The city sprawls out below us, with quite a haze but we are also rewarded with a faint glimpse of the Andes

Up we go!

 This means we have limited time at the top of the San Christobel hill. It means we have to rush up several flights of very uneven stone steps to get to very small chapel at the top.

A Nun and a priest and many children had me scratching my head

A pregnant Mary

Primitive Art paintings in the Chapel

Next we follow Pablo to the civil centre. This is the presidential palace - the president doesn't live here, but works here. In fact you can tell he's at work by the flag.

By now we are becoming more aware of the effects of the Coup d'Etat and the Military Junta, followed by the dictatorship of Pinochet in the years from 1973 to 1989. In this area there is quite an obvious presence of military police

Allende was the president before these troubles

Great display of flags

We take the metro to the fish markets now. Unfortunately there is a blockade of one station a day to protest against the 24 cent price rise, so we have to go an extra stop and walk back.

Pedestrian only mall

Monument to the indigenous people. I tried to find out more about them.

Historic Central Post Office building

It is nearly 2 o'clock when we get to lunch which is a choice of empanadas, with a pisco or beer. I chose the beer which was just as well as the others said the pisco was very strong.

 On the way back we stopped at the famous icecream shop.

Mine was dark chocolate and mint

 There was only time for a brief nap before we headed out for dinner. Duncan and I chose a degustation menu of matched wines with VERY large tapas.

The selection of wines available!!!!

The first two tapas. Pork two ways (rolled and crumbed) and meatballs in salad - note that we got one lettuce leaf with that!!

6 wines to try

 An excellent wine experience.

Excellent university music ensemble busking on the way home.

We loved the computerised clock at the Hotel Ismael. A little team (on video) came out and changed the planks to make the digital numbers each minute. At the change of hour a huge number of people a rushed on

South American Sojourn Start

Sunday,13th October - Dropped at the airport by Graeme Black. The check-in lady had a very sketchy knowledge of South American Geography, and we hope our bags are following us to Chile. Stocked up with 100,000 Chile Pesos and 6030 Argentinian Pesos - heaven knows what that will  buy us.
After a few snatches of sleep we wake up for a big breakfast - which is technically lunch. Our initial impression of Argentina is that it is very flat and very green. We transit through Buenos Aires (hence referred to BA)and eventually board a very crowded plane. The exceptional crush is only made up for by the exceptional chocolate biscuits (alfajores) they serve and the exceptional sunset - layers of burnt orange, golden marmalade and claret rising above the dark horizon.
It takes us a little while to locate our bags, but it is very gratifying to walk out and see a Peregrine sign with our name on it. The shuttle takes us to the Hotel in Santiago - by now its 10.30pm, and being a Sunday in Chile we have to get sandwiches from room service (normally Spanish people don't eat until very late.) The day has been a long one - 16 hours behind.
Monday, 14th. At last we are on to Monday! I don't even wake when Duncan goes for a run and has a shower - in fact it is not until he stubs his toe going out onto the balcony that I wake up..
Despite the cooler weather, and the odd drop of rain we set off for a walk, through the park and over the Mapocho River to the suburb of Bella Vista.

This is the river - very little water which is a theme of this BLOG, but incredible art on the side of the floodway. In summer the river becomes a cycleway. It is still early spring, and the river is a trickle.

So much street art - hard to know which houses to choose.

Many of the small shops are artisans - sewing, screenprinting, leatherwork, picture framers, metal/knives to name a few. We loop back round to the park, past the Botero horse to have a morning tea break.

I knew immediately that it must be a Botero.

Duncan was an attractive companion at morning tea!

Now this is Hot Chocolate. No foam, no marshmallows, no sweet powder. Just melted chocolate and milk.

We were intrigued to see this mower in the park - the driver stands behind as if he is on a Segway.

We find out more about this exceptional statue tomorrow.

These icecreams are world winners - we would try them tomorrow.

We head to the restaurant for lunch. The Royal Guard beer and the Carmenere wine are very good, and it is mid afternoon before we head back to the hotel for a nap.

The tour Welcome Meeting is at 6 o'clock. The other 7 have come from another tour, climbing Machu Picchu and with an early start to connect with this tour they are tired and dishevelled! We all go out for dinner together and it is our first experience of  Pisco Sours.