Monday, June 13, 2011

Humiliation or Death



It is a far cry from the beauty of the Monet gardens to the horror of Terezin, a concentration camp just outside Prague. These bathrooms look very good - but these were always locked, except for when the Red Cross came, and then the inmates were allowed to use them for a day or so. Terezin was the model camp created by the Nazi as a publicity stunt. What a shame the publicity stunt was only for a few days a year. The buildings here had begun life as an army barracks in the 19th century being between the base of two arms of the Germanic Empire, then a gaol at the turn of the century. This cell was famous for housing the young man Princeps who shot Arch Duke Ferdinand and precipitated the First World War. Normally a man would be shot for treason, but being under 21, he was housed here. (He died aged 26)


Work will make you free. The sign of hope that greeted the inmates. Terezin was filled early in the war and few had heard of the atrocities that might befall them. They were duped into thinking that their deportation to Terezin was a good thing.


The field outside is huge, filled with graves of those known to die here. Many have small pebbles on them bought by relatives from their homeland as is a Jewish tradition
But not all were Jewish and the Christians who were unlucky enough to come to this place - mainly Czech who had disobeyed in some way were also buried here.
A huge cemetery for such a short time.
And just remember that because it was a model camp their were no gas chambers here. All these people died of malnutrition and disease through poor hygiene.


We were all totally relaxed as we entered, and quite numb when we came out.

These bunks held 30 when the Red Cross came and up to 90 for the rest of the year.



Our guide was passionate about her job. Here she tells us about the holding pen for new arrivals. They were stripped naked and up to 50 people crammed in here. They took turns to stand,sit or lie down. If two people had died by morning they were moved into the camp. If not they were held for a longer period. The first two to step out of line would be shot. It seemed so hopeless for them, but everywhere there were tiny signs of tenacity which held them on until the next Red Cross visit.

The washing area was needed to try and keep the lice at bay. Clothes were washed, inmates were hosed and then they dressed in their wet clothes.


We were then taken into Terezin township where Jews from Denmark and some of the Scandinavian Countries were held under "house arrest"
We went to a museum which featured the many pictures of a young girl which were found in the attic of one of the schoolrooms which sprang up.

A sad and sobering experience.


















Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Beautiful Monet Gardens

Whilst in Paris we took a half day trip up to the gardens of the Monet family. We travelled by minivan, with a very informative driver who assured us that it was because of the light that Monet settled in this area north east of Paris. Well... who's going to believe that?? Yet as we entered the valley the light seemed to become quite luminescent, and by the time we reached Giverney, I was a believer!


Monet, and other impressionists like Bonnard whose works we saw in a small art gallery before the garden visit, investigated the reflection of colours and the blurring of lines, subjects close to hand in their works, not the stark, precise impersonal paintings of the preceding era.

The house was filled with copies of Monet works - and although not the originals, at least we could get up close.


The waterlilies were not yet out under the famous bridge, inspired by Japanese artists who had made their way to Paris in the late 1800's



A warm spring had bought the tulips on early, not only here but all over Paris too. (must have put their bulbs in the fridge, Lyn)



The plots were laid out with a casual country air.



with artistic vistas everywhere


The Japanese tourists loved it, especially with the links to Japanese art, which really surprised me.


Duncan was not only impressed by the gardens, but also gained quite an insight into some of Phyl's styles of painting.


The trip back took us past the Nazi headquarters in France - so close to Paris. It looked scary.



Thursday, June 2, 2011

What the???? (2)

In Colmar we hired a driver as the tour to the castle was all booked out. Here we are tasting some gewurz in Alsace! The clown between us is the driver, Yves. And no tour of a winery is complete without a thorough inspection of the tanks. Thank goodness I was wearing a distinctive cardi. This is in Reims at Mumm Champagne.



Audience participation time and Frank astounds even the Hungarian dancers by being able to balance the carafe on his head. Barbara and Hettie look excited, but Frank has his stoic smile on.



Guaranteed to buy anything tacky in the souvenir line, and often making the rest of the tour party wait while he did so, Mr and Mrs Elvis (although we understand their real name was Anderson) chose plastic Bavarian Aprons here. They sort of suit them.



Some of you may recall that when we visited Italy in 2003, Duncan bought a pair of shoes he just loved. Finally on this trip the soles started to give way. It took a few days to convince him that no, the cobbler could not repair this until he finally went and bought a Czech pair. We ceremoniously put the old pair in the bin of the Hilton Prague. When the cleaning lady had been, the shoes were neatly stacked ina row with all the others. Our second attempt to throw out the shoes may have been more successful but we'd left the country by then.




Goodbye Shoes


Tuesday, May 31, 2011

What the????

There's always a few photos taken on tour which tickle you fancy, and over the next few Blogs I'll be sending them. Simon: Is it a Bird?

Gwen: Is it a plane?

Jax: No it's Supertower.

Hard to pick the best angle to photograph the Eiffel Tower.

Now, you people going to the Orsay Art Gallery, you step out of line and I''ll Shoot you!


See you kids, maybe one day you too can be ready to gun down the people in artgallery queues.


What a clever idea!

A lovely wooden coffin with a hinged bottom so that after the service they can remove the body and reuse the coffin. A lovely recycling idea from 3 centuries ago as seen in Melk.


More fun Ideas tomorrow












Monday, May 16, 2011

Fabulous Food

A holiday post is not complete without a review of the food which astounded us along the way. We were searching for a lunch place in a small village outside Colmar when Duncan spotted these absolutely huge loaves of bread - at least a metre long! A cold wind was blowing in this hillside town, so Duncan put his hoodie on - not a fashion trend very common in France.


Suprisingly Duncan's photos contain no photos of food - just boring old churches. Gaz took this one of us when we had champagne in the park to mark the end of the marathon trip.


Here's Kerre and Gaz handing out the good champagne and croissants in the park under the Eiffel Tower - so we can cross that off our Bucket list.

First night on the boat and the desert was a symphony of flavours!


Cheese at the Colmar Market. Munster was the big regional favourite, but a huge range available.

Easter Cakes and Chocolate confectionary were fantastic - too good to eat!

These croissants and custard filled pastries were HUGE. Sometimes I managed to knock one back at breakfast.

This sort of rum baba was as close as we got to any sort of Hot cross bun. This was served on the boat on Easter Sunday.

We had dinner at L'Apostrophe in Reims and I ordered the profiteroles! Nah even I couldn't do this.


Our first night in Budapest we went to a small cafe with a very helpful waiter. I had the Hungarian Goulash - you may be able to discern the unusual little bucket that this soup came in. Spent about 20minutes picking my teeth after this "soup"

Next day Duncan decided to give the goulash a go at another restaurant.


I really enjoyed this meal - a crepe filled with a chicken mixture and smothed in a sweet, mild paprika sauce

Barbara and Frank at the Weltenburg Abbey where the Benedictine monks specialise in making a rich dark beer. This was accompanied by a huge bread salted pretzel. We wished we walked or cycled up the pretty Danube Gorge to burn off the calories!

In Vienna we went to Schonbrunn Imperial Palace and had an apple strudel making lesson. The crust is made very thin like the Italian pizza bases (see below) and the apple was not prebaked. It was an enjoyable session with a good big chunk to try.

Yes the white sheet he is holding up is the crust - and you can see a written page through it!

It's certainly amazing what we ate over there. Very few green veges, just hydrophonically
grown salads. Meat - often duck or rabbit - and bread was the order of the day. Luckily we were so busy that we had only put on one kilo a piece when we got home.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

European Easter

One of our great pleasures on this trip was to be in Europe over Easter time. Bear with me as these photos are a little out of order. The first photos are from Mondsee which is a small village in Austria which is where we were on Easter Sunday. All the ladies were in their dirndl skirts and the men in their leiderhosen and many of the women were carrying baskets. I wondered out loud what was in the basket and was fortunate enough to be heard by one of the locals who showed me in their basket - cheese, eggs, bread and cake.


All the goodies were being taken to church to be blessed and then taken home and eaten! I thought they might share them around, but no.


The dirndl and leiderhosen are apparently quite expensive, but come with large side seams so that as you age and widen you can still keep wearing them. They are often used at important occasions - weddings, family gatherings etc.

They are all quite individual in colour, but the design is traditional. We arrived in Mondsee before the church service for the day so that we could see inside the beautifully decorated church where they filmed the marriage of Maria and Col. von Trapp for The Sound of Music


Just before Easter we went to a series of villages just behind Colmar in France. I have just included a few of the fantastic Easter decorations of the quaint houses there.


Easter Eggs, chickens and Bunnies were the order of the day.



Some of these were shops, but most were just homes.




They were all enchanting and I took so many photos!





Even the boat we were travelling on got into the act. We ate the chocolate ones but I think the brightly coloured boiled eggs were part of an egg salad the next day!

These adorable bunnies were on sale in a market in Salzburg. They apparently were made out of some sort of flower cone, maybe a dried banksia.

Before we left France (preEaster) we were in Strasbourg and as we went into town on the very user friendly bus/tram system people were getting on with small bunches of hedge. I thought maybe it was like laurel leaves on Anzac day. Then it dawned on me. It was Palm Sunday, and this is what they were taking to church as Palms!!

So Easter in Europe. Not a single hot cross bun was offered to me, seen for sale nor passed my lips. I'll just have to wait until next February when they start selling them in NZ.