Sussing out Santiago

Tuesday 15th October
Today, in line with Peregrine's low carbon emission policy, we are off on a walking tour with local guide, Pablo. Santiago is a vibrant, but chaotic city of 6 million. We start walking through Parque Forestal, past the fountain gifted in 1910 by the Germanic States to celebrate the liberation of Chile from the Spanish in 1810 - followed in 1818 by the declaration of Independence officially of Chile as a country.

I really like the way the fountain created a bow-wake as the boat (figuratively) steered Chile to freedom.

 Again we cross the Mapocho River and head for the funicular. So far, so good, but there are two school parties ahead of us and we have to wait in line for about 40 minutes.

The city sprawls out below us, with quite a haze but we are also rewarded with a faint glimpse of the Andes

Up we go!

 This means we have limited time at the top of the San Christobel hill. It means we have to rush up several flights of very uneven stone steps to get to very small chapel at the top.

A Nun and a priest and many children had me scratching my head

A pregnant Mary

Primitive Art paintings in the Chapel

Next we follow Pablo to the civil centre. This is the presidential palace - the president doesn't live here, but works here. In fact you can tell he's at work by the flag.

By now we are becoming more aware of the effects of the Coup d'Etat and the Military Junta, followed by the dictatorship of Pinochet in the years from 1973 to 1989. In this area there is quite an obvious presence of military police

Allende was the president before these troubles

Great display of flags

We take the metro to the fish markets now. Unfortunately there is a blockade of one station a day to protest against the 24 cent price rise, so we have to go an extra stop and walk back.

Pedestrian only mall

Monument to the indigenous people. I tried to find out more about them.

Historic Central Post Office building

It is nearly 2 o'clock when we get to lunch which is a choice of empanadas, with a pisco or beer. I chose the beer which was just as well as the others said the pisco was very strong.

 On the way back we stopped at the famous icecream shop.

Mine was dark chocolate and mint

 There was only time for a brief nap before we headed out for dinner. Duncan and I chose a degustation menu of matched wines with VERY large tapas.

The selection of wines available!!!!

The first two tapas. Pork two ways (rolled and crumbed) and meatballs in salad - note that we got one lettuce leaf with that!!

6 wines to try

 An excellent wine experience.

Excellent university music ensemble busking on the way home.

We loved the computerised clock at the Hotel Ismael. A little team (on video) came out and changed the planks to make the digital numbers each minute. At the change of hour a huge number of people a rushed on

South American Sojourn Start

Sunday,13th October - Dropped at the airport by Graeme Black. The check-in lady had a very sketchy knowledge of South American Geography, and we hope our bags are following us to Chile. Stocked up with 100,000 Chile Pesos and 6030 Argentinian Pesos - heaven knows what that will  buy us.
After a few snatches of sleep we wake up for a big breakfast - which is technically lunch. Our initial impression of Argentina is that it is very flat and very green. We transit through Buenos Aires (hence referred to BA)and eventually board a very crowded plane. The exceptional crush is only made up for by the exceptional chocolate biscuits (alfajores) they serve and the exceptional sunset - layers of burnt orange, golden marmalade and claret rising above the dark horizon.
It takes us a little while to locate our bags, but it is very gratifying to walk out and see a Peregrine sign with our name on it. The shuttle takes us to the Hotel in Santiago - by now its 10.30pm, and being a Sunday in Chile we have to get sandwiches from room service (normally Spanish people don't eat until very late.) The day has been a long one - 16 hours behind.
Monday, 14th. At last we are on to Monday! I don't even wake when Duncan goes for a run and has a shower - in fact it is not until he stubs his toe going out onto the balcony that I wake up..
Despite the cooler weather, and the odd drop of rain we set off for a walk, through the park and over the Mapocho River to the suburb of Bella Vista.

This is the river - very little water which is a theme of this BLOG, but incredible art on the side of the floodway. In summer the river becomes a cycleway. It is still early spring, and the river is a trickle.

So much street art - hard to know which houses to choose.

Many of the small shops are artisans - sewing, screenprinting, leatherwork, picture framers, metal/knives to name a few. We loop back round to the park, past the Botero horse to have a morning tea break.

I knew immediately that it must be a Botero.

Duncan was an attractive companion at morning tea!

Now this is Hot Chocolate. No foam, no marshmallows, no sweet powder. Just melted chocolate and milk.

We were intrigued to see this mower in the park - the driver stands behind as if he is on a Segway.

We find out more about this exceptional statue tomorrow.

These icecreams are world winners - we would try them tomorrow.

We head to the restaurant for lunch. The Royal Guard beer and the Carmenere wine are very good, and it is mid afternoon before we head back to the hotel for a nap.

The tour Welcome Meeting is at 6 o'clock. The other 7 have come from another tour, climbing Machu Picchu and with an early start to connect with this tour they are tired and dishevelled! We all go out for dinner together and it is our first experience of  Pisco Sours.

On Newcastle Beach (Australia) Gwen Bush 2019

This is what I am basing my painting on.

Ready to start, thanks to a sale in Warehouse stationery.

Putting the base coats on

Sand and Sky

Adding the surf

Work on sky and sea

Total disaster!! Thought some copper might look nice on the sand. Oh No

Really pleased with the sand makeover. It has good texture and an odd bit of glimmer

Detail in the waves

More definition to the waves

This is a copy of the photo that I am loosely basing my painting on. Today I put on the base coat of the rocks

Trying to add a lot of texture in the rocks. Last photo of the left wave that is good.

More structure on the rocks

Today I corrected some of the sky where I had ended my brush stroke to abruptly. I feel the sky is pretty well done now. I added some colour to the rocks, and totally ruined some of my wave action.

Close-up of spray effect

And finally, the work is finished, varnished and trying out for a spot on the wall.

Final Days.

We had one more day to go, and with the promise that I could look at the Black Pearl Shops on the way back, we hired a car again and Duncan had his second round at Green Pearl - unfortunately not as good as his first round. here are some shots that emphasis things I have already written about.

The golf course is so close to the shore - a new water feature could be included in the next few years.

I'm in control! The water is the lagoon, not a lake or water hazard.

Looking the other way - the volcanic cone rises sharply. (Obviously I'm still in cart-control)

The final shot!

I went to several Black Pearl shops but I couldn't see anything that appealed - and the prices were ridiculous!! That night we headed out to the Mayflower. A much more sedate driver with a lovely family from the US. On the way back I complimented the children on their behaviour at the restaurant and said I would like to be their Grandma. They said they had a granny already, so I offered to put in a good word with Santa about who had been "Naughty or nice" this year. Fortunately the parents looked rich enough to cope with this fiction.

Very unusual wine glasses, good for smelling the bouquet.

Duncan had duck stuffed with foie gras and I had beef cheeks on a lentil dish. Very rich, very french.

Next day it was back on the catamaran, over to Papeete, out to the airport and home. We had to stop a night in Auckland, and then of course, because we drive up, we had to drive home. Apart from the travel hiccups it was a very pleasant and interesting holiday.